The story of Spain is not complete without discussing Granada. Granada was the center of Islamic power on the iberian peninsula for over 700 years holding steadfast until Queen Isabel finally pushed out the muslims in 1492. Granada has a mysteriousness about it, like there is something that has yet to be revealed. It’s a very small town with one dominating feature, the Alhambra. When you want to know what to do in Granada this is first on the list.
Things to do in Granada
You cannot miss the Alhambra when trying to decide on places to visit in Granada, it is the monument of all monuments in Spain. The Alhambra complex overlooks the Albacin and all of Granada. To visit you really need to book tickets in advance by at least 90 days. The entry at the main entrance is timed by morning or afternoon sessions and entry to the Nasrid Place inside the Alhambra is also timed by the hour every 15 minutes. If you want to get the most out of this magical monument I highly recommend booking a guide. If you could only book one guide on your entire trip, do it here, it truly enriches the experience.
Getting to the Alhambra is easy, just hop in a taxi or bus but if you want something a bit more interesting walk the “Cuesta del Rey Chico” (hill of the boy king). Start at Plaza Nuevo and walk along Carrera del Darro with the river on your right hand side. Walk for about 300 yards and you will find another long plaza with terraces and cars. At the end of that is the beginning of Cuesta del Rey Chico, you’ll see a map. Go to the right over the river and this will take you all the way up to the entrance of the Alhambra. If you don’t want so much exercise, walk down after your visit to the Alhambra.
Even though the Alhambra is the main attraction you should walk through the Albacin, the old moorish neighborhood just across from the Alhambra. Narrow alley ways and a steep climb to the top will bring you to St. Nicolas which has stunning views of the Alhambra and Generalife. There are many restaurants where you can eat on a terrace and enjoy the views of the Alhambra day and night. I do have a couple of excellent recommendations for where to eat here. From the top of the Albacin you should walk down the hill and make your way past the little artesian shops on Calle San Juan de los Reyes. In this neighborhood you will also enjoy a restored hammam, the old Arab baths. Its perfect for after your visit to the Alhambra.
If you can make some time to relax, try the Arab baths just below the Alhambra, Hammam Al Andaluz. They are by far the most beautiful baths in Spain. After go for some sweet tea in the Albacin.
Other things to do in Granada are the Fundacion Rodriguez Acosta, the Cathedral and the Basilica de San Juan de Dios. I do have mixed feelings about two of the three. Fundacion Rodrigues is an interesting eclectic mix of islamic architecture and art nouveau with gardens that will be quite beautiful some day. There are some caves below the building that are said to be connected to an entire network of tunnels under the Alhambra (that are not accessible) This is a newly opened attraction that is held by a private family. Relative to a visit to the Alhambra you may be disappointed with this monument. If you do visit go before you go to the Alhambra.
The Cathedral in Granada is simple yet beautiful, if you have seen a number of cathedrals in Spain or Europe it will not be a surprise, however the Basilica de San Juan de Dios is really quite opulent and and would be my choice to visit.
Where to eat in Granada
I have found that finding good places to eat in the south of Spain is a bit more complicated than in Madrid or the north. It is always best to have a recommendation than try to guess what may be good. Granada is not exception. I have several spots I visit every time I visit Granada, each one with its specific attributes. For tapas I love Taberna La Tana. The quality of food is excellent, in a cool environment, with plenty of locals in attendance. For the freshest fish and salads I like Mercado Lepanto right in the very center of town. Again a place frequented by locals with good whole foods. You can have everything cooked as you like it here. My absolute favorite is Huerto de Juan Ranas up in the Albacin just under Plaza de St Nicolas. They have a terraces with sofas that have unobstructed views of the Alhambra and the the restaurant underneath is simple and elegant. Great food and the staff is very friendly. it is not cheap but I believe a good value.
Taberna La Tana
Calle Rosario numero 11
esquina placeta del agua
+34 958 225 248
Mercado Lepanto
Calle Lepanto 5, 18009 Granada, Spain
+34958 22 53 74
www.facebook.com/BarMercadoLepanto
Huerto de Juan Ranas
Calle Atarazana Vieja, 6
18010, Granada, Spain
+34 958 28 69 25
Where to stay in Granada
There are plenty of places to stay in Granada but one of my favorites is Casa 1800. It is in a restored building with the classic Andaluz courtyard from the 17th century and it has beautiful views of the Alhambra. It is an a great location for walking the Albycin and up to the Alhambra.
Other good hotel are Palacio Santa Paula, Hospes Palacio de los Patos and Villa Oniria.